Polysorbate 20

Product Appearance:

• Form: Viscous, oily liquid.
• Color: Clear, pale yellow to lemon-gold.
• Odor: Very faint, characteristic, and slightly sweet/soapy.

Solubilizer Profile:

• Primary Target: Essential Oils, Fragrance Oils, and oil-soluble vitamins (like Vitamin E) in small quantities.
• Clarity Performance: Excellent; designed to produce “water-white” transparent solutions.
• HLB Value: 16.7 (High Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance).

Possible Usage Rate:

• The Golden Ratio: Typically requires 1:3 to 1:5 (1 part fragrance to 3–5 parts Polysorbate 20).
• Tear-Free Cleansers: 1% – 5%.
• Aqueous Room Sprays: 1% – 3%.

Product Description

Polysorbate 20, also known by the trade name Tween 20, is a non-ionic surfactant formed by the ethoxylation of sorbitan before the addition of lauric acid. In the world of solubilization, its primary mission is the “Micellization” of aromatic compounds. Because it is highly hydrophilic (water-loving), it is the most effective tool for keeping a water-based formula looking like pure water, even after oils have been added. When you add a fragrance oil to water, the oil molecules naturally clump together to hide from the water (hydrophobic exclusion). Polysorbate 20 prevents this by surrounding each tiny oil droplet with its “lipophilic” tails pointing inward and its “hydrophilic” heads pointing outward. This creates a micelle so small that it does not scatter light. This is why a toner or a body mist remains crystal clear. It is favored for facial applications because its fatty acid chain (lauric acid) is relatively short, making it gentler and less likely to leave a “tacky” or “heavy” film on the skin compared to other solubilizers.

Possible Uses/Applications:

• Crystal-Clear Toners: Incorporating essential oils or fragrances while maintaining a “water-white” appearance.
• Aqueous Body Sprays: Allowing for high fragrance loads in water-based mists without oil separation.
• Tear-Free Cleansers: Utilized for its exceptionally mild nature in baby shampoos and face washes.
• Linen & Room Mists: Ensuring that scents remain fully dispersed to prevent staining or nozzle clogging.

Formulation Guidelines

• The Premix Protocol: This is the most critical step. You must combine your oil-soluble components (fragrance, essential oils, or Vitamin E) with the Polysorbate 20 in a separate vessel. Stir thoroughly until the mixture is homogeneous. Only then should you introduce the water phase. Adding them separately usually results in permanent cloudiness.
• Troubleshooting Cloudiness: If your solution is cloudy, it indicates the “oil-load” has exceeded the capacity of the micelles. Add Polysorbate 20 in 0.5% increments until the solution clears.
• Foam Management: Because it is a surfactant, it will create foam if shaken. If you are making a “clear” product, stir slowly to avoid incorporating air bubbles, which can be difficult to remove.

Safety & Stability

• Skin Compatibility: Widely used in “baby” and sensitive skin products due to its low irritation profile.
• pH Stability: Highly stable across a wide pH range (5.0 – 9.0), making it compatible with almost all preservative systems.

Please Note:

All the products supplied are for cosmetic use (cosmetic formulations) – for external use only.